Hetch Hetchy: Yosemite’s Hidden Gem with a Controversial History

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When most people think of Yosemite National Park, they picture iconic landmarks like Half Dome, El Capitan, and Yosemite Falls. But tucked away in the lesser-known northwest corner of the park lies Hetch Hetchy, a peaceful oasis that offers stunning scenery, quiet trails, and a glimpse into one of America’s most controversial conservation debates.

Whether you’re seeking solitude away from Yosemite’s bustling crowds or curious about the valley’s fascinating history, Hetch Hetchy is an unforgettable destination.

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Table of Contents

  1. The Beauty of Hetch Hetchy
    1. Hetch Hetchy Hiking Trails
      1. Wapama Falls Trail
      2. Rancheria Falls Trail
      3. O’Shaughnessy Dam Walk
  2. The Controversial History of Hetch Hetchy
    1. The Birth of the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir
    2. The Debate Today
  3. Know Before You Go
    1. How to Get There
    2. Tips for Visiting Hetch Hetchy
  4. FAQs About Hetch Hetchy
  5. Hetch Hetchy: A Hidden Treasure Worth Discovering

The Beauty of Hetch Hetchy

Hetch Hetchy Valley, often called a “hidden gem,” features towering granite cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and miles of scenic trails. Once likened to a smaller version of Yosemite Valley, it is now home to a reservoir that supplies water to San Francisco.

Unlike Yosemite Valley, Hetch Hetchy sees far fewer visitors, making it an excellent choice for those seeking tranquility. What’s more, you don’t need a reservation to visit, even during Yosemite’s peak season. It’s a perfect option for last-minute adventurers looking to experience the park’s natural beauty without the crowds.

There are very limited facilities on this side of the park and the most popular activities are hiking and backpacking. When going, make sure to pack plenty of water, sunscreen and download offline maps or bring a paper map. We like to use this National Geographic Yosemite map. This part of the park is only open from sunrise until sunset, so keep that in mind when planning your hikes.

Hetch Hetchy Hiking Trails

Hiking in Hetch Hetchy is a treat for those looking to explore Yosemite’s grandeur in peace. Here are some of the most popular trails in the area.

1. Wapama Falls Trail

  • Distance: 5 miles (round trip)
  • Elevation Gain: 200 feet
  • Why It’s Great: This moderate trail follows the northern edge of the reservoir, offering incredible views of the water and surrounding cliffs. The highlight is the stunning Wapama Falls, where you can feel the mist of the cascading water as you cross sturdy wooden bridges.

2. Rancheria Falls Trail

  • Distance: 13 miles (round trip)
  • Elevation Gain: 1,600 feet
  • Why It’s Great: For a more challenging adventure, this trail takes you further along the reservoir, past Wapama Falls, to the serene Rancheria Falls. It’s perfect for those who want a longer hike and a greater sense of solitude.

3. O’Shaughnessy Dam Walk

  • Distance: 1 mile
  • Elevation Gain: Minimal
  • Why It’s Great: For an easy and scenic stroll, walk across the O’Shaughnessy Dam. This short route offers sweeping views of the reservoir and serves as a gateway to other trails.

The Controversial History of Hetch Hetchy

Hetch Hetchy’s beauty is undeniable, but its history is a source of ongoing debate among conservationists, historians, and environmentalists.

The Birth of the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir

Before the reservoir, Hetch Hetchy was a lush valley similar in grandeur to Yosemite Valley. Its meadows, forests, and cascading rivers made it a favorite among early explorers and nature enthusiasts. But in 1923, the valley was dammed and flooded to create a reservoir, providing water and hydroelectric power to San Francisco following the devastating 1906 earthquake.

The decision was fiercely opposed by John Muir, founder of the Sierra Club, who called the valley “one of Nature’s rarest and most precious mountain temples.” Muir’s campaign to protect this area failed, and the loss of the valley remains one of the most contentious chapters in American conservation history.

The Debate Today

More than a century later, the debate continues. Advocates for restoring the valley argue that advances in water storage and conservation technology could allow for the reservoir’s removal without disrupting San Francisco’s water supply. Organizations like the Restore Hetch Hetchy campaign believe the valley could be returned to its natural state, offering a second Yosemite Valley for future generations.

Opponents, however, contend that the reservoir is a critical resource for San Francisco and surrounding areas. It provides clean drinking water to 2.7 million people and generates renewable hydroelectric power, making it an essential part of California’s infrastructure. They argue that removing the dam would be costly and environmentally disruptive.

Regardless of which side you support, Hetch Hetchy stands as a powerful symbol of the tension between conservation and development.

Know Before You Go

For those looking to experience Yosemite away from the crowds, Hetch Hetchy is a perfect destination. Unlike Yosemite Valley, you don’t need a reservation to visit, even during peak times. The entrance fee is included in your general Yosemite admission, making it an affordable and accessible option.

The trails here are less crowded, offering a chance to connect with nature in a serene and unhurried environment. The Wapama Falls Trail quickly became a favorite for us, with its dramatic views and refreshing mist from the falls. It’s also a fantastic spot for photography, with reflections of the cliffs shimmering in the reservoir’s calm waters.

How to Get There

Hetch Hetchy is located about 1.5 hours from Yosemite Valley, accessible via the Big Oak Flat entrance. Follow Highway 120 to Evergreen Road, which leads to the park’s entrance gate. Note that the entrance has limited hours and is typically open from 7:00 AM to 9:00 PM in the summer and 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM in the winter.

Parking is available near the O’Shaughnessy Dam, where most trails begin. Be sure to bring plenty of water, snacks, and sunscreen, as services are limited in this part of the park.

Map of Hetch Hetchy Valley highlighting key trails, points of interest, and landmarks such as Wapama Falls, Rancheria Falls, and O'Shaughnessy Dam. Includes camping areas, parking locations, and access points to Lake Eleanor and Lake Vernon, making it a helpful resource for hikers and backpackers exploring Yosemite National Park.

Source: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/hetchhetchy.htm

Tips for Visiting Hetch Hetchy

  1. Start Early: Arriving early ensures you have time to explore the trails and enjoy the peaceful surroundings before it gets busier.
  2. Pack the Essentials: Bring water, snacks, sunscreen, and sturdy hiking shoes. Cell service is limited, so download maps in advance.
  3. Respect the Environment: Practice Leave No Trace principles to help preserve this unique area for future visitors.
  4. Check Trail Conditions: Some trails may close seasonally due to weather or maintenance. Check the Yosemite website for updates before heading out.

FAQs About Hetch Hetchy

Do I need a reservation to visit Hetch Hetchy?
No, reservations are not required to visit this area of the park, even during Yosemite’s peak season.

Is there an entry fee?
Access to Hetch Hetchy is included in Yosemite’s $35 entrance fee, which is valid for seven consecutive days.

Are there services available at Hetch Hetchy?
Services are limited, so bring plenty of water, food, and supplies. There is no gas station in the area, so fill up before arriving.

Can I swim in the reservoir?
No swimming or boating are allowed in the reservoir or within a mile of the reservoir.

Is Hetch Hetchy dog-friendly?
No, dogs are not allowed on the trails or near the reservoir to protect the local wildlife and ecosystem. If you are looking for a dog-friendly Yosemite itinerary, check out our article: Dog-Friendly Adventures in Yosemite National Park

A Hidden Treasure Worth Discovering

Hetch Hetchy offers a unique opportunity to experience Yosemite’s beauty without the crowds or the hassle of reservations. Whether you’re hiking to waterfalls, strolling across the O’Shaughnessy Dam, or simply soaking in the serenity, this hidden gem is a must-visit for nature lovers and history enthusiasts alike.

Its controversial history only adds to its mystique, making it a place where the beauty of nature meets the complexities of conservation. Next time you’re in Yosemite, take the road less traveled and discover Hetch Hetchy for yourself. Make sure to read up on the environmental controversy, so you can take an informed stance in the debate.


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